WHERE LEGENDS SWIRL
Have you ever wondered where the last tea stall in India is located? Well, I have had the good fortune of having a hot cuppa from there and it was called exactly that – “The last tea stall in India”. This stall is strategically located outside the famous “Vyas Gupha” (cave), the place where Ved Vyas is said to have narrated the Mahabharata to Lord Ganesha in Mana village. I must put in a few words for the tea stall owner’s ingenuity at choosing the right location, kudos for his marketing skills – I actually learnt a few tips from him, being from the same field myself!
Mana Gorge
Mana lies 3 kms ahead of Badrinath and is the last inhabited village on the Indian side in the state of Uttaranchal, 60 kms from bordering China, it leads up to the Mana Pass. With a population of approx 1000, who vacate the town like the migratory birds in winter, it is replete with breath-taking waterfalls and gorges. One such gorge called Mana gorge is the point where Ved Vyas was said to be meditating when his concentration was broken by the cacophony created by the gushing waters of the river Saraswati. He cursed the river to go underground and one can see this strange phenomenon from the wooden bridge across the river. On one side the river takes a deep plunge from around a height of 300 ft and then it suddenly disappears below amidst the boulders. The drop in altitude is so great, giving it the illusion of going underground. It is believed that the Saraswati re-emerges at the Sangam at Allahabad.
Bhim Pul (A bridge)
At the spot where the river plunges, one can witness another strange sight -- there is a bridge formed across the river Saraswati with a huge boulder. Legend goes that this boulder was put by Bhim, of the Pandavas, to enable Draupadi to cross over on their journey to heaven during Swargarohan. The mighty Saraswati had refused passage to Draupadi due to the fact that she is “unpure” – being wedded to five husbands at the same time. Bhim, in his customary grandiose style, threw this boulder to form a bridge for Draupadi to cross over – male chivalry at its best! This boulder is awesome in the sense that it must be weighing at least 20-30 tons – lifting which is a feat impossible for any mere mortal!
Vyas Gupha (A cave)
Coming back to the famous “Vyas Gupha” – located between the Bhim Pul below and the Mana Gorge on top, this non descript cave is tucked away indiscreetly amongst the mountain range. Ved Vyas is believed to have narrated the Mahabharata right here. Localites have transformed this cave into a veritable temple with a courtyard outside it and the customary “bell” at the entrance. There is a man-sized statue of Ved Vyas inside the cave where people pay their respects. I found the statute contrary to my expectations – it resembled a dark and scary individual with a ‘criminal’ look, sporting a long, thick beard. I had visualized him to look like a sage – very enlightened and holy and with a peaceful look, but alas! Wisdom is not dependent upon the exterior look of a person!
Ganesh Gupha (Cave)
About 300 meters below the Vyas Gupha is the Ganesh Gupha, where Lord Ganesha penned down the Mahabharata. Ved Vyas is said to have told Lord Ganesha that he will narrate the Mahabharata only on one condition, that he will do so at a stretch, without any pause. This smaller cave also has a statute of Lord Ganesha ensconced inside it. One has to use one’s own imagination to visualize how the narration would have taken place at a distance of 300 meters!
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