LEBANON - CONTRAST COLOURS

Anita Limaye found that Lebanon has a fascinating mix of serene beauty and prosperity amid its rolling geo-politics

   LEBANON is a poor country of rich people”, my husband aptly told me when I arrived there; I soon discovered he was absolutely right. This Mediterranean country has a wealth of diversity — an eclectic mix of Maronite Christians, Sunnis, Shias and Druze, a culture as richly varied as its ethnic groups, and a wonderfully liberal outlook in dress and lifestyle — but is tied down by the circumstance of geography and politics.
   Landing at Beirut, once known as the ‘Paris of the East’, we were picked up by a Mercedes taxi sent by our hotel. The affluence of the nation was palpable immediately. Indeed, a look around Hamra, the shopping district of Beirut where we were also stayed, instantly revealed the opulence of the people.
   High-end brand names jostled with each other for space - whether it was clothing brands or restaurants, all the stores had panache. All the women walking down the streets, whether young or old, looked like they were dressed in their Sunday best
- complete with matching handbags and shoes, perfect maquillage and all-too-often, a cigarette in hand! Their ensembles were chic and their demeanour classy!
   Restaurants and cafes were teeming with people, who seemed to be unaware of the steep prices and were out just to have a good time. Downtown Beirut is equally breathtaking. We saw only luxury stores there like a Ferrari showroom, a Bvlgari salon, a D’amas jewellery shop, Patchi chocolates… I wondered if anyone remembered that tanks lurked not far away!
   The natural beauty of Lebanon is as mesmerizing as the material opulence of the country. Its location affords unending views of the sapphire blue waters of the Mediterranean from almost anywhere in the capital city. There are also quiet bays and ports all along the coast, starting just a few kilometres outside the city.
   The ancient Phoenician port of Byblos, from the 2nd century BC (the oldest continually inhabited town in the world) still retains its rustic charm with its untouched coastline and ancient ruins. Then there is Jouneih, a popular spot for beaches and equally well-known for its night life.
   As we moved further north from Beirut, we realized that suddenly we were in the midst of mountains and we did not even feel the steep climb! There stark mountains of Lebanon have their own brand of charm, though they are a far cry from the Himalayas. Whether it is the ski resort of Faraya — with a lovely, easy slope — or The Cedars, which has the iconic 1,500-year-old tree which is also the symbol of Lebanon and graces its flag — the mountains are a definite draw for locals and tourists.
   There also are several museums around the country showcasing the culture and history of Lebanon, and Crusader castles and Islamic palaces that hark back to the times when this land was the battleground of clashing civilisations of another era.
   Do you want to know what the best part of it all is? Lebanon remains curiously uncommercialised and pristine; partly because not many people are aware of the troubled nation’s serene charm and partly because Lebanon is invariably in the news for the wrong reasons.

SPLITTING IMAGE

   IN sudden and sharp contrast to Lebanon’s natural beauty and richness, I could see the scars of the constant infighting and wars. They have left a permanent mark on the face of this beautiful country. Traces of the 1980s civil war and the hostilities with Israel can be seen on the streets of Beirut and the surrounding countryside. Shops and houses have windows with bullet holes (well-preserved for everyone to see) and the LAF (Lebanese Armed Forces) tanks are positioned at almost all intersections in the city.
   We also came across armed soldiers guarding the streets, which sent an eerie feeling down my spine. How could such a beautiful place be so dangerous? Shades of Kashmir, perhaps? We soon discovered that the situation in Lebanon is so fluid that a normal day could be succeeded by one with firings for no apparent reason. “Almost everyone here owns a weapon and it’s equally normal to use it!”said my fauji husband chillingly. I suddenly felt very unsafe...
   Yet strangely, despite the uncertainty and fear, I fell in love with Lebanon - mainly because of the warmth of the people here. Everyone was so helpful and courteous, it was unbelievable. No cab drivers hoodwinked us, no shopkeepers outsmarted us, no passersby misled us and, best of all, no pickpockets troubled us!! What more can anyone ask for?