CRUCIBLE OF HISTORY

Anita Limaye marvelled at the heritage of southern Lebanon, even as she realised the tensions of the present day

    After a thoroughly enjoyable traipse around Beirut and its environs the north, we prepared to head to the south where my husband’s unit was located. The unit was part of the UNIFIL (United Nations Interim Force In Lebanon), located deep in the mountains. When we told our guide, though, he seemed to become wary and suddenly wasn’t as enthusiastic as he had been when showing us around the north.
    Finally his cause for worry surfaced. He told us it was dangerous to go south, and there were travel advisories against tourists against visiting that area anyway. Only after my husband reassured him that he was located there, and that being part of the UN would ensure that we face no hindrance, our guide agreed to take us around the south’s historic sites.
    Lebanon’s unique geographical location at the cusp of Africa, Asia and Europe and its 225 km coastline along the Mediterranean Sea made it a prime trading centre, so historic sites abound. Trading began 7000 years ago under the Phoenicians and flourished ever since.
    Lebanon is an Arab country coloured by Western influences which gives it a cosmopolitan character
and a multicultural legacy. Not surprisingly either, as huge empires have held sway over Lebanon’s fertile land down the millennia.
    The Bekaa Valley was the foremost breadbasket for the Roman Empire for centuries and Lebanon was ruled by an assortment of rulers like the Assyrians, Babylonians, Persians, Greeks, Romans and the Ottomans. The rise and fall of dynasties brought in different religions and ultimately forged a heterogeneous mix of people in today’s Lebanon including the Druze, Muslims and Christians.
    After World War I, Lebanon also formed part of the French Protectorate, which is why now a majority of the population there speaks French too. Lebanon is an Arab country coloured by Western influences which gives it a cosmopolitan character and a multicultural legacy, best seen in Beirut.
    But as soon as we left Beirut, the change in mood was palpable. People became more scarce than the greenery all around, and we wondered what happened to all the vineyards and the colourful hookahs (known as narguileh in Arabic) found everywhere near Beirut... These had disappeared as if by magic and only the Litani River snaking through the countryside kept us company.
    The river too seemed like a narrow strip of water silently running along its destined course. Houses along the roadside also decreased further and further till we saw nothing but barren open fields lying deserted due to the recent war.
    We saw a bridge being reconstructed which had recently been bombed by the Israelis. We passed more places which had been the target of Israeli wrath and it was then that I understood why southern parts looked so desolate and abandoned. It was simply too close to the Israeli border for comfort.
    But we weren’t thinking of settling there, so our agenda drove us onwards!
    First on our list were the cities of Sidon and Tyre, both relatively more populated than most other souther towns. The main attraction in Sidon or “Saida” is the Sea Castle, in a picturesque setting off the coast, built as a fortified island by the Crusaders in the early 13th century to ward ofd invaders.
    A stone causeway links the mainland to this castle and the walk down this stretch — as huge waves lash the shore —is among the most beautiful I have ever seen! Although the castle is mostly in ruins now, the sight of the gigantic waves pounding the sides of the castle is both haunting and beautiful! It is indeed eerie to be all alone on an island inside a deserted castle in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea!
    As lunchtime beckoned, we headed for a charming restaurant called Zawat just opposite the Sea Castle. Apart from traditional Lebanese cuisine, this restaurant on the first floor, gave us a spectacular view of the Sea Castle, and a talking parakeet to amuse our son!
    Tyre, declared as an UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979 for its fascinating archaeological remains from the Phoenician, Roman, Greek and Byzantine eras, was our next stop. Incidentally it is not pronounced the same way as the word for wheel but as ‘teer’!
    Tyre began as a prominent Phoenician port city but still commands a breathtaking view of the blue waters of the Mediterranean and has some great (sea)food too! Good restaurants are located along the sea front where one can enjoy the view of the sandy beaches and the palm trees lining the Tyre Corniche.
    Tyre’s Hippodrome and Necropolis, located a kilometre from the coast, is one of the largest and the most well preserved sites in the world. The necropolis has a spectacular group of tombs and sarcophagi from the Byzantine and Roman periods. A dominating Triumphal Arch proudly stands amid the ruins, its height only evident once we stood under it!
    The vast hippodrome was unearthed about 80 years ago and is a Greek stadium which was used for horse races and chariot races. The hippodrome is similar to a Roman Circus but much wider and longer. We saw a vast open space for the races and generous seating stands. The stadium was also surrounded by arched entrances made of stone on all sides, well preserved till date!
    Along the coast on the northern end, lay the ruins of a 5th century Roman Circus, once again with the stunning Mediterranean as its backdrop. The ancient mosaic pathway leading up to the ruins was steeped in history and we saw the remains of huge Roman underground storage tanks for collecting rain water.
    This area also has some well preserved pillars of an ancient Byzantine palace which stood prior to the Roman Circus. Just a stroll among the ruins and seeing the limpid waters of the Mediterranean made us feel that our trip south was worth it!
    But there was more in store in the pretty towns of Marjeyoun and Ibl-es-Saqi as we headed even further south.
    En route, for a short stretch of the road, we travelled parallel to a 6-ft high fence which aroused . I was curious to know what this was and soon learnt from my husband that this was the “Blue Line” or LOC – the term we in the Indian Army are more familiar with!
    The Blue Line is the border of Lebanon with Israel and I was amazed to see no human being in sight manning the area! The Israelis have equipped their entire border with technologically advanced cameras and sensors, so anyone or anything going near is instantly detected!
    I was at once reminded of our own soldiers in J&K manually guarding the fence along the Indian border. Although I am a fauji wife, it made me more empathetic towards those who risk their lives for the sake of keeping our country safe and secure. I suddenly felt jittery so near the border and was glad when we passed beyond that area.
    The most renowned archaeological site in that region is Chateau Beaufort, perched on a rocky cliff at a height of 710 m. A castle believed to have been built during the Crusades, it was under Israeli occupation till the year 2000 along with some other parts of south Lebanon.
    Hizbollah then launched a dramatic attack on the Israelis by climbing the cliff from behind the castle after which they were forced to retreat. The cliff is a sheer drop from the castle to the Litani River! We could still see traces of Hizbollah propaganda there in the form of sign boards and their yellow and green flag flying atop the Chateau, which actually offers some excellent views of Israel over the mountain tops!
    Our journey down south in Lebanon was a true eye-opener to the realities of war, and tension between Lebanon and Israel. But the wonderful heritage of that land left us fervently hoping that the people there would realise soon that there was more to be gained for both sides if peace prevails.