BRIEFLY, BEIRUT

As a city that has embraced east and west through strife-torn times, Beirut’s undeterred cosmopolitan ethos thoroughly impressed Anita Limaye

   BEIRUT, the capital city of Lebanon is also known as The Lady of the World. “A thousand times she died, a thousand times revived” is what they say about this city where people from vastly different backgrounds, religious and cultural, co-exist in the Arab world’s most open and tolerant society. There is a ring of truth about that line as surely this city has seen more than its share of strife, especially in the past few decades. The good thing, however, is that the people have survived countless wars and invasions, to become an ultramodern metropolis and yet one of the oldest cities in the world.
   During our visit to Lebanon, we stayed in the Beirut Central District of Hamra. Thirty years ago, Hamra Street was known as the “Champs Elysees” of the Middle East since it was frequented by tourists the whole year round. Hamra has undergone a lot of change since then but it still is a completely commercial district and a shopper’s delight. Restaurants and cafes dot the streets along with hotels and a variety of shops selling only the latest in fashion.
   As we walked along the streets, we could smell the wafting aroma of freshly baked goods almost at every turn! We soon discovered that Beirut is a treasure trove of bakeries, famous for their local goodies like breads and a variety of cookies filled with figs or walnuts or similarly rich foods! “La Cigale” and “The Wooden Bakery” are popular chains of patisseries. The latter is visible even from afar due to the presence of an authentic “wooden windmill” outside every outlet! And traditional Lebanese food is quite comfortable for Indian palates!
   As we strolled further to soak in the sights and sounds of the city, we could see Western influences blending in completely with the traditional accents. Huge billboards advertising their local beer “Almaza” were as ubiquitous as fast food joints such as “Burger King”, “Subway” and “McDonald’s” located at every nook and cranny.
   The skyline of Central Beirut is dominated by the Blue Mosque, or the “Hariri Mosque” as the locals call it. The slain Prime Minister of Lebanon Rafik Al-Hariri had begun its construction in 2002 but never lived to see it completed. Ironically today, his grave is beside the mosque. This blue-domed structure with four minarets towering 72 metres high, is modelled on the Ottomans’ Blue Mosque in Istanbul. The minarets, though, resemble Mecca’s Grand Mosque. This building has served as the backdrop for waves of mass protests that have altered the course of politics in Lebanon over the past few years.
   Anyone who has studied in the region knows about and aspires to join the American University, Beirut. Perched on a hill overlooking the stunning Mediterranean on one side and Bliss Street on the other (named after the American missionary Daniel Bliss who founded it in 1866) it has wonderful walkways through green vistas all around. A truly “blissful” place to study! I learnt that the university counted among its alumni many Arab leaders as well as the great contemporary thinkers, writers and philosophers during its golden years from 1943-1975. We even got a sneak peek at the sprawling 73 acre campus, thanks to my husband’s UN I-card.
   No visit to Beirut, however brief, is complete without a stroll down the famous Corniche, a seaside promenade along the beautiful Mediterranean somewhat akin to our very own Marine Drive in Mumbai. The difference was that the Corniche is definitely more chic and clean! A steel railing runs along the entire length of the Corniche and we could see the mesmerising blue waters of the Mediterranean along with Mount Lebanon on the east.
   We started our walk from “Raouche”, famous for the two Pigeon Rocks which jut out from the water. We saw that the Corniche attracts many tourists and locals, joggers and strollers, the young and the old alike. We also caught a glimpse of vendors sitting with “arigili” or “hookahs” where one could just take a few gurgles with some friends along the boulevard! That, of course, is not something seen on Marine Drive!
   By the time we reached the other end, we were starved and were thus delighted to see the famous yellow “M” sign just opposite us —the one enduring monument to the links between the Middle East and the West!